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Ian

The Buffalo Gap Wine & Food Summit

All flights had been delayed for hours due to seasonal downpours. Clawing through the congested Dallas Love Field airport was more like squeezing my way from one end to the other of a packed sports stadium. The concourse reeked of beer loaded would-be travelers, all watching the flight monitor as fiercely as football fans at the Texas-OU Cotton Bowl game.

Somewhere between the madness of the Dallas North toll-way and stepping out onto a harsh, red-dirt landscape, I had been transported into what looked like an old western film set.  I found myself where the unforgiving Texas desert shakes hands with legendary southern hospitality; the Perini Ranch Steakhouse in Buffalo Gap, Texas for the annual Buffalo Gap Wine & Food Summit.  The large vinyl welcome sign and the divine scent of mesquite-smoked tenderloin suddenly reined me back to reality.  A mixture of anticipation and excitement swelled within me as I readied for a weekend of non-stop wine, food and conviviality.

The food at the opening Friday evening event was crafted by the “founding father of Southwestern Cuisine” Chef Stephen Pyles, and his exceedingly competent, band of outlaw grub-slingers.  One might brag that they could have pulled it off with their eyes closed but surely no one would have known by the high caliber of the fare.  When faced with an electrical short that darkened the outdoor kitchen, Pyles’ team rose to the challenge and distracted the crowd with a flawlessly executed parade of seasonally inspired dishes.  The best part of my evening was the Asparagus-Pine Nut Soup with Smoked Garlic Custard, Lobster Croqueta and Pecorino-Lime Crisp paired with two Sauvignon Blancs.  The Asparagus soup was on the mark with the vegetal notes of the 2007 “Terroir Coquerel” Sauvignon Blanc from the Cockerell Family Wine Estates.  Lighter citrus flavors of the Llano Estacado Sauvignon Blanc 2007 made sense with the Lobster and accentuated the lime in the Pecorino Crisp  

Being a big fan of anyone who risks a scalping for not serving the practically required chocolate dessert, I fully enjoyed the Tropical Panna Cotta Parfait with a Coconut Macaroon “Straw” paired with a sweet 2006 Muscat Blanc from Brennan Vineyards.  It was topped with candied Marcona almonds, layered with Pineapple-Rum Cake and served in a tall soda fountain glass that concealed a surprise ending of Caramelized Rum Pineapple for anyone gutsy enough to reach it… and I was.

On Saturday, being somewhat experienced at participating in mid-morning wine tastings, I loaded up on extra helpings at breakfast and headed back out to the Perini Ranch for the scheduled culinary workshops. I can recall very few ways to spend a Saturday morning that are better than attending the “Who, What, Where & Whys of Wine Tasting” session, lead by Master Sommelier Guy Stout.  I am giddy at the chance to practice my aroma recall skills with a wine-centric group under the direction of a Master Sommelier.  The instant gratification you experience when those around you validate the flavor profile of a wine you have just analyzed and written down is quite potent; similar to the feeling of pushing in the last piece of a jigsaw puzzle.  

In the breezy, sun drenched party tent, Guy fashioned an atmosphere of light-hearted trust amongst his guests who soon felt at ease pinpointing whatever fruits, flowers, herbs, spices and types of earth they perceived.  By the 5^th flight of wine the world was rosier than the view through Elton Johns' glasses, my nose was completely anesthetized, and I pondered whether or not my tasting notes might have been more valuable if that darned spit bucket had been just a little more convenient.  Thankfully, an outdoor grill of juicy fajitas with onions and grilled Poblano peppers awaited us as we tottered through the tent flaps and onto the back terrace. As the weekend progressed, the classic themes of Peppers vs. Chiles, Wino vs. Foodie, Man vs. Nature and Breakfast vs. Brunch played out against the backdrop of tumbleweeds and a decaying antique chuck wagon.  Stephen Pyles dazzled the crowd with his extensive knowledge of chilies while introducing us to exotic flavor combinations from his newest Dallas restaurant concept, Samar.  

Later that evening, several of Texas’ hottest chefs set up camp like a wagon circle and served epicurean bites while the Summit participants ran around raiding each chuck wagon like hungry Indians.  Some of my favorite dishes were Chef Dave Herman’s “Miso-Yaki” Marinated and Braised Beef Short Ribs over Asian Slaw paired with Meeker Vineyards Handprint Merlot 2005, Chef Tim Love’s Lamb Crepinette with Braised Lentils and Arugula paired with Robert Hall Winery’s Meritage Hall Ranch 2005 and Rebecca Rather’s Chocolate Tart with Mexican Vanilla Ice Cream and Whiskey Sauce.  

As the festivities lowered to a simmer we took refuge with a small group of late nighters around the fire in Chef Tim Love's camp.  As the cool night crept in around us, our faces glowed in the firelight and our eyes glowed from the shots of Tuaca that warmed our bellies.  We chatted into the evening while we watched Tim hypnotize wild quails to sleep.

On Sunday morning the Perinis treated us to a traditional Texas Brunch before sending us on our way home.  Dense, flaky biscuits served with local honey and fresh butter, thick-cut skillet fried bacon and a cheese and chili egg casserole with oven roasted tomatoes.  

It wasn't  until after I had already gone back for seconds that Lisa Perini told us to save room for fried chicken and chicken fried steak that was being cooked out back.  I was way too stuffed to proceed with another course; the thought of consuming anything fried after such a filling breakfast sounded anything but appetizing. Driven onward by the fear of self induced shame I would feel by not accepting this generous act of hospitality, I took a breath and dove head-first into the platter of crunchy goodness.  I started chomping ferociously at first, hoping to put a good dent into it before my stomach could communicate to my brain that it couldn’t hold another bite...and the I stopped abruptly.

Whoa! Suddenly my entire concept of revered, time-honored food sensations, such as tapping through the brittle top layer of crème brulee or the delicate popping of caviar between the tongue and the roof of ones mouth, was unexpectedly challenged and overcome in the time-span of a few bites.   What began as the casual goodbye to a weekend of gourmet bliss, akin to a friendly hug after a weekend vacation romance, suddenly emerged as an epiphanal pause while my mind registered the experience.  It arrived like love itself that happens only when you least expect it; when you’re not looking for it.  Or maybe it was more like the first few moments after Susan Boyle began to sing on Britain’s Got Talent. This was no ordinary “feed store” chicken.  The tender drumstick and the crisp batter that clung as perfectly to it as an angels halo, made me tingle with goose bumps. Such a simple thing, or so it seems, as a deep fried chicken leg had become the defining food moment of  my whole weekend.     

Buffalo Gap Wine & Food Summit

Tomorrow I will venture into the deep wild west of Texas tumbleweed country to a remote, though well-known, outpost called the Perini Ranch. The small town of Buffalo Gap, endearingly referred to as Buffalo Crack by snarky city friends,  is no less than a 3 hour-long trek from the nearest metroplex of Dallas/Fort Worth.

If you're a skeptic, you might wonder what could possibly be worth braving the far reaches of the vast, windswept, buffalo roaming, high-plains?  It's the promise of a distant oasis of world-class gourmet food and wine, kicked-off in a way that only Texans can at the annual Buffalo Gap Wine & Food Summit.  I am sold on the chance to rub elbows with some of Texas' most talented Chefs and Winemakers, along-side fellow dyed-in-the-wool foodies, winos and other Texas wildlife.  I will be following up with photos and commentary as I taste my way down the drive trail... Yehawww!